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It’s a pity that this graceful Empire-era city state is just a stop-off on so many itineraries. Right at the bottom of the Malay peninsula, it retains many of the trappings of its British past in period architecture and an orderly (if punitive) approach to the details of life. Stay a while and you’ll find the welcome warm, the traffic free-flowing and the accent very much on flawless, courteous service.