Brest

Brest is a busy, working port town, and accommodation consequently ranges from uber lavish to businesslike and basic. The best hotels in and around the centre are upmarket modern chains, such as Hotel Oceania Brest (82 rue de Siam), with its famous seafood restaurant, and the art deco Hotel Le Continental (Square de la Tour d'Auvergne). A little out of town, the Old Salt House (4 quai Amiral Douguet, Chateaulin) is a 19th-century country house hotel with oodles of French charm and a captivating river view. For equally beautiful views on a tighter budget, Hotel de la Rade (6 rue de Siam) in central Brest offers comfortable rooms that overlook the sea.

The classic, stripy T-shirt Bretagne look is permanently on trend in Brest. Slow (4 rue Ducouedic) has the best line in sailor style, with a fabulous ethically sourced range of clothing and jewellery. The mainstream stores are concentrated in Coat Ar Gueven Shopping Centre (50 rue Jean Jaures), but for a true taste of Brittany pop into Le Roi de Bretagne (12 quai de la Douane). This maritime gem stocks everything from local textiles to hampers and handmade figurines, and it's the perfect place to pick up a souvenir. Sweet-toothed visitors should check out Histoire de Chocolat (60 rue de Siam), which specialises in original flavour combinations.

If you only eat one dish in Brest then make it a Breton crepe. This regional speciality seems to be sold on every street corner, but nowhere does it better than Creperie du Roi Gradlon (19 rue Fautras). The region's other major specialities are seafood and apple cider. Find the former cooked to perfection at La Maison de l'Ocean (2 quai de la Douane), an art deco institution with a commendable 'pile it high' approach to food. Alternatively, splash out with a meal at Michelin-starred L'Armen (21 rue de Lyon) - head chef and owner Yvon Morvan is known for his creative and seriously tasty seafood dishes.

Festival Astropolis

July

Brittany's premier techno festival has been going since the 1990s and is billed as one of the first raves to go legal. It runs for four days each July in venues across Brest.

Tonnerres de Brest

July

This large-scale maritime celebration only takes place every four years, but it's undoubtedly the biggest and best festival that the town has to offer. The sight of more than 1,500 boats from all corners of the globe filling Brest's harbour is unforgettable.

Les Jeudis du Port

August

'Thursdays at the Harbour' have become a summer institution in Brest. Featuring everything from classical music and street theatre to children's fairs, this is one of the town's most diverse festive celebrations.

Atlantique Jazz Festival

October

This region-wide jazz festival consists of more than 30 concerts across Brittany, with Brest hosting the popular grand finale. It culminates in five days of concerts, featuring artists from all over the world.

Brest European Short Film Festival

November

This arts festival has been at the forefront of the European short film scene since the 1980s. Its aim is to spot and foster up-and-coming young filmmakers, so expect to see creative edits from the stars of tomorrow.