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Cagliari, means 'castle' in Sardinian... and this ancient trading port has been fought over, invaded and settled by hordes of Europe's seagoing tribes, from the Phoenicians to the Carthaginians, and, of course, the Romans. Today, you don't need to be remotely seagoing to discover this historic (and highly cosmopolitan) spot - just a decent pair of walking shoes, an Italian phrase book, and a hearty appetite.